[89stanger]

i know this is a really stupid question, but i've got probibly a week to do a week and a half's work to try to get my emissions down, other wise my car comes off the road perminently... so i am back to basics because everyone i know is stumped, i have untill the 9th of april, what's the firing order again? maybe i have it out, i am going to set my tps again and check all my **** over and over again till this thing passes

 

[Guest]

H.O. ('82-'95) 302 = 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8

 

[89stanger]

so it will look like this then?

 

[GhostDog 5.0]

Yes that's how it goes.

 

[89stanger]

F*UCK!!!!!! cuz that's how mine is, but now it won't even run!!!!!!!!!!

 

[89stanger]

Please Help Me I Need My Car To Go Pick Up Girls Tomorrow!!!!!!!

 

[GhostDog 5.0]

Just making sure , but you know that cylinder one is towards the front on the passenger side and number 5 is on the front drivers side?

 

[89stanger]

yeap, i know that, i cannot figure this out, i am thinking maybe i have them one place out, like the rotor is turned by one plug or something... i don't know..., like maybe the guy who owned the car before me took it out and put it back in wrong, cuz i didn't check the firing order when i did all that engine work, i just switched the wires and used what it alreity was...

 

[FoxChassis]

Firing order goes COUNTER-CLOCKWISE (on the distributor cap), NOT CLOCKWISE.

 

[marks86gt]

This may sound stupid but is the coil wire connected?

 

[89stanger]

yes it is connected, THANKYOU FOX CHASIS!!!!!!! i am used to working on chevs, (they break down more often) and i am pretty sure they go clockwise... but in my diagram, cylinder one is in the right position right?

 

[FoxChassis]

But in my diagram, cylinder one is in the right position, right?

Roughly, yes. It varies from car to car. But it's in the 11 o'clock to 1 o'clock vicinity.

Just put it somewhere in that range, wire the cylinders correctly, and then fine tune distributor clocking by setting base timing (at idle with the SPOUT connector removed).

 

[89stanger]

see my car cranks and cranks and cranks but will not fire, it is kicking a little bit, but on the compression stroke of another cylinder and such, it's way off it goes wa wa wa wa wa wa wa blah! wa wa wa wa wa wa wa wa wa wa wa wa wa wa blah!, i have not moved the distributer shaft since i had it running yesterday, all i have done is pulled off the wires, the harness on the side is still connected, the coil wire was never removed

ok i re did it, with cylinder 1 in the 12:00 position, it ran, really badly, but it ran... i rechecked the order, it's 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8, going counter clockwise, it shot alot of black and brown smoke out the tailpipe

this is what i have right now, please tell me if you think this is right? it is missfiring badly, i have changed the picture a few times between posts, i changed it just before i put it on here too, so if u have seen it before take another look, i renumbered the cap

 

[Black 93 LX]

wires

Make sure 6 & 5 plug wires are separated as far from each other as possible and not running parallel to each other. You can get an inductive cross fire and have it run poorly.Thats probably not your current problem.....

 

[Stangboy5666]

Dude, I already had this problem. For some reason on my 88 I had to move the wires 2 or 3 spots CC. Then I could get my timing correct. It was very strange. I still dont know what the deal was, but I shot black smoke out the back too BAD, and also I had to give it gas to even run. Not sure what the hell the deal was, but try that. I moved each wire one spot at a time to get them right. Good Luck.

 

[89stanger]

yeah i got it running good now, big problem i found at a mustang shop, the vacuume line to the fuel pressure regulator was disconnected, so i had a vacuume leak and really high fuel pressure, i have my driving hc passing, and my idle hc double the limit, that was @ 600 rpm idle and 4 degrees total timing, (4 base with timing spout pulled) i have since, backed the timing down to 2degrees and brought the idle up to 1200 with spout pulled, just to get it through, this is what i was told to do by the mustang shop guy

 

[davido30093]

You may need to do a little more troubleshooting. There are a lot of things that can cause your symptoms, but go with the most likely first. Since the problem started after you removed and replaced the spark plug wires, that was a good place to start looking for the problem. Now that you are sure that you have them installed correctly and that the timing is approximately correct, take a look at some other possibilities. Pulling the plug wires could have damaged one or more of them. Test each one individually and make sure that it is not broken and causing a misfire. If the plug wires check OK, try substituting a known good TFI module. If it still runs poorly, repost and we will continue. Good Luck with it.

 

[89stanger]

i da no it's fine now, i figure it was just crap that had settled in the cylinders from cranking it over with no spark @ the firing point, cuz it's fine now, it smoked less and less as time went on and i did some hard acceleration, it's fine now, but the emissions are high, been talking to people @ shops, took

it through last night with timing set to 4 degrees btdc with no bypas spout, idle at 900 rpm here are the readings,


driving test---------------max,----------------mine,----------average----------result
hydrocarbons(HC)--------89------------------44.00-----------30.50------------pass
carbon monoxide(CO) %0.67----------------0.03-------------0.03-------------pass
oxides of nitrogen (NOx) 986------------------74--------------443-------------pass

idle test
hydrocarbons(HC)----------83-----------------161-------------39---------------fail
Carbon Monoxide (CO)% 0.51----------------0.02-----------0.03-------------pass


i took it through again today, timing set to 2 degrees btdc again bypass spout removed, and idle at 1200 rpm these are the readings from that,


driving test-------------max-----------------mine-------------average---------result
hydrocarbons-----------89------------------44.00--------------30.50-----------pass
carbon monoxide %---0.67-----------------1.80---------------0.03-------------fail
nox----------------------986------------------76.00------------443.00-----------pass

idle test
hc-------------------------83-------------------14----------------39-------------pass
co %---------------------0.51-----------------0.03-------------0.03------------pass

total work i have done since i owned the car, blown head gasget, replaced both, had heads shaved .004" each due to warping, replaced and laped all 16 valves, brand new sealed power valves, dayco pollycog belt, edelbrock true rolling timing chain, fenco waterpump, felpro gasgets, sealed power valve seals, c&l 73mm mass air with 19lb sample tube (readings are lower with c&l than with stock but i will try stock again tomorrow) autolite plugs, bosch wires, msd cap and rotor, i think that's it, if i think of anything else i will post it...


unless when i installed my tach i screwed up my coil ground, cuz i sorta had to cut ans splice a few times near the fire wall, it's kinda mickey mouse, and my tach has never worked properly anyways now that i think about it, every once in a while it spikes up to like 5000 rpm and back down like a flick, it's an auto gauge w/recal and shift light

 

[89lx5o]

ummm did you have the distributor competley out? if so you could have put it back in a tooth off or even more...

 

[89stanger]

no, but it did occur to me last night that when i put my tach in i kinda butchered the coil ground from the distributer to the coil, and kinda spliced and lengthened and crimped and spliced some more, really micky moused, could this cause a weak spark? my tach has always acted kinda funny, spiking to 6000 rpm for a milisecond and then back to idle, does this once or twice then is fine for a while, only does this at an idle...