Hey guys I have recently been contemplating doing the common 8.8 Explorer rear end swap into my 66 (inline six currently building a 351W). I have found countless threads on how to do it, which is great. The purpose of my thread is to get feed back from those who have actually done the swap, I am wondering if those who have done it are satisfied. If you are not satisfied could you please inform me as to why and what would you have done different, if you still recommend the swap. Thanks in advance.
1966 rear end swap for Explorer 8.8
66RatPoo
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This is shaping up to be a fantastic thread. Seriously considering the 8.8 swap into my 67. Time to echo what 66restomod said a while ago, please continue to update this thread through out your build, (with pictures, if possible) you will be helping not only yourself, but me and tons of others who are looking into the swap!
If its not too expensive I would go ahead and replace your bearings while everything is out and accessible. Might as well do it once, so you don't have to do it later down the road.
Good luck Rkmcdon
If its not too expensive I would go ahead and replace your bearings while everything is out and accessible. Might as well do it once, so you don't have to do it later down the road.
Good luck Rkmcdon
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Well, so far so good. I stripped down the rear end and took it to the weldor this week. He cut the long side to the same length as the short. I brought it back home, cleaned it up, paying particular attention to the inside of the tubes, put the short axles back in and everything looks good.
Took it today to the guy painting the car and he'll weld the new spring perches from Summit on and put it under the car.
When I pulled the rearend, I grabbed the rear roll bar with it and my welder cut the brackets so they could be reused. After the rear end is under the car, I think I'm going to try to make the roll bar work as well. i eyeballed it today and I think it should be fine.
All in all, this swap is going pretty smoothly. Of course the real test will be the first time I launch at 3500 rpm, but that's still several months off.
Took it today to the guy painting the car and he'll weld the new spring perches from Summit on and put it under the car.
When I pulled the rearend, I grabbed the rear roll bar with it and my welder cut the brackets so they could be reused. After the rear end is under the car, I think I'm going to try to make the roll bar work as well. i eyeballed it today and I think it should be fine.
All in all, this swap is going pretty smoothly. Of course the real test will be the first time I launch at 3500 rpm, but that's still several months off.
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I have just purchased a 8.8 for my daughters 68 coupe out of a 1995 Explorer disc brake 3.73 posi lock. was hoping to see the finished post. from this swap. I also found a set of factory front disc set ups at the same salvage yard. ( was my lucky day)
my question is what did you do for booster and master cyclinder and proportion valve (sp)????
my question is what did you do for booster and master cyclinder and proportion valve (sp)????
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Former Explorer nut here, look on the door code for D4 in the Axle area, that was the typical code for the L/S 3.73.
I currently have a 3.27ls out of a LSC, but thinking that the explorer swap maybe a better idea for my '65 Coupe.
I currently have a 3.27ls out of a LSC, but thinking that the explorer swap maybe a better idea for my '65 Coupe.
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I have a 65 coupe that I too have been looking for the right info to try this. My dad and I own this car together he isn't very interested in this but if I had all the info I could pull it off. I'm not understanding the part about shortening the longer side. The housing and axel or just the housing. If just the housing do you need 2 shorter side axel's from the passenger side to complete the project?
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On a 67+ the width is exact to your original 8"
On a 66 is wider by one inch per side..if you run late model 94-04 mustang wheels it they will sit right back in and clear perfect
I put one in my 66.. No need to cut the long tube if you run the late wheels cause they will put you back to stick width..I'm lowered too. Grab a track mid eyes.clearance is close at the rear u joint..but I bounced the car and it didn't seem to hit..if it hits the tunnel I'll clearance the tunnel slightly with a hammer. No biggie..my floor plan is no virgin anyhow
Because I have a t5 5 speed trans I needed a custom length shaft...sadly it hit the e brake bracket in the tunnel so I cut it off..I'll install a lokar ebrake kit instead
![Image]()
![Image]()
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On a 66 is wider by one inch per side..if you run late model 94-04 mustang wheels it they will sit right back in and clear perfect
I put one in my 66.. No need to cut the long tube if you run the late wheels cause they will put you back to stick width..I'm lowered too. Grab a track mid eyes.clearance is close at the rear u joint..but I bounced the car and it didn't seem to hit..if it hits the tunnel I'll clearance the tunnel slightly with a hammer. No biggie..my floor plan is no virgin anyhow
Because I have a t5 5 speed trans I needed a custom length shaft...sadly it hit the e brake bracket in the tunnel so I cut it off..I'll install a lokar ebrake kit instead
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I have torque thrust wheels with the older offset so I am stuck having to do a cut down. I'm not sure how to set pinion angle but would be interested in learning what to do here. I'm also wanting to know the dimension of a shortened housing using two passenger side axels in the 8.8. I'm not sure if I would want to run spacers to make the width back up. I know when our rear leafs were bad we had tire rub on our 8.0 and wheel package so maybe narrower an inch would be good? Keep this thread going it has plenty of interest out here!On a 67+ the width is exact to your original 8"
On a 66 is wider by one inch per side..if you run late model 94-04 mustang wheels it they will sit right back in and clear perfect
I put one in my 66.. No need to cut the long tube if you run the late wheels cause they will put you back to stick width..I'm lowered too. Grab a track mid eyes.clearance is close at the rear u joint..but I bounced the car and it didn't seem to hit..if it hits the tunnel I'll clearance the tunnel slightly with a hammer. No biggie..my floor plan is no virgin anyhow
Because I have a t5 5 speed trans I needed a custom length shaft...sadly it hit the e brake bracket in the tunnel so I cut it off..I'll install a lokar ebrake kit instead
![Image]()
![Image]()
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I set pinion angle to stock 66 specs..forgot what that was but it can be researched... put rear Jack stands level ground..magnetic angle finder on pinion..put it at angle u want and weld
![Image]()
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If anyone needs info on how to install an 8.8 from an explorer into your 64 1/2 to 66 mustang, hit me up. Basically, you can cut it to any width (assuming it's shorter) and you can probably cut down the axles, have them resplined and heat treated if you have it narrowed enough. Mine was 51" from the wheel mounts. I have a 10" wide rim with no clearanse issues at all. Tucks nicely inside the wheel well too.
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I have a 65 and we are considering the 8.8. Did you cut yours down? I believe your 66 is the same width as my 65? If you have a ten inch wide wheel you must have the wheel house tubbed? I have American Racing Torque Thusts for wheels I'm not sure what the offset is and I'm sure that will be a factor in the overall width as well. How do you get an axel resplined? I'm considering the Explorer 8.8 because the Explorer is so abundant in scrap yards and the price for posi is affordable with a bit of labor to throw in. The rear disc seems a bit appealing but not entirely needed. Another concern is the emergency brake? What did you do here please post pics or PM me on any info that will help. We plan on finding an 8.8 to drop in after the summer is over and we work out some bugs after tearing all suspension and drive train out except the rear end itself. Thanks for your help.
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help with rear end
I purchase a 1996 explorer rear end to put in my 1967, previous posters, Moneypit, I believe suggested it would fit with few mods. when I measure the end to end seems almost identical, however, from one side to center of pinion is 29" the other is 25", the 8" I have now seems to be 26"... So how will this work??
I purchase a 1996 explorer rear end to put in my 1967, previous posters, Moneypit, I believe suggested it would fit with few mods. when I measure the end to end seems almost identical, however, from one side to center of pinion is 29" the other is 25", the 8" I have now seems to be 26"... So how will this work??
offset pumkin..itll work..center it under car take measurements weod perches on
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use the flange from the explorer driveshaft on your mustand driveshaft and a 3030 to 3010 conversion u joint
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Pinion angle 67
Ok on the 1996 explorer to 67 swap of complete rear end It seems just as posted easy fit except to move the leaf spring perch and to set the pinion angle. Does anyone have advice on finding the proper degree of angle.
Ok on the 1996 explorer to 67 swap of complete rear end It seems just as posted easy fit except to move the leaf spring perch and to set the pinion angle. Does anyone have advice on finding the proper degree of angle.
I just set mine up to factory pinion angle..worked perfect...forgot what that was but some research sbould het u that answer
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I set pinion angle to stock 66 specs..forgot what that was but it can be researched... put rear Jack stands level ground..magnetic angle finder on pinion..put it at angle u want and weld
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I've been trying to find what the stock pinion angle should be but I can't find it anywhere. Has anyone been able to locate that info?
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