[66slvrpny]

The original bolts should work fine. =)

Thank you. Parts are showing up so its getting exciting. Do you think ill need the aux trans oil cooler? I have a 4 core aluminum rad with a electric fan I think that might be enough.

 

[Grimbrand]

If you have the stock converter, and you use the built-in radiator cooler you would probably be fine. Your car is light, and unless you are powerbraking, I don't think you'd ever get enough 'slip' to burn anything up. It's not like you're towing, and your transmission has a lockup converter, so out on the road, it'll stay nice and cool.

 

[66slvrpny]

If you have the stock converter, and you use the built-in radiator cooler you would probably be fine. Your car is light, and unless you are powerbraking, I don't think you'd ever get enough 'slip' to burn anything up. It's not like you're towing, and your transmission has a lockup converter, so out on the road, it'll stay nice and cool.

That's good that means less money to spend. I kind of thought it was overkill to put one in. One thing im wondering is with my stock shifter. Since I now have a 4 gears compared to 3 before will I have to make any modifications to be able to manually select all gears?

 

[Grimbrand]

The 4R70W uses the same number of positions as a stock C4. It's just got P R N D 2 1, same as a C4. However, there's a switch to turn Overdrive on and off in D if you want. You can choose to use it, or not, but it'll be available with the controller.

(Edit: I know your 66 has PRN (little dot, big dot) 1. But it's the same thing. =)

 

[silver69]

Hello 66slvpny not trying to spoil your plan but I make a 3 piece kit that lets you use the stock shifter and its all bolt in with no fancy mods I saw in that write up you listed. my kit is two fourty and its a new shifter arm, cross member and range selector mounting bracket. You need nothing else to effect this conversion aside from the tps signal and reroute exhaust new driveshaft that must happen regardless. Also do not use a urethane mount, do use an aluminum driveshaft, be positive the slip yoke is for a 4R70W.
I have no idea on what all you spent but ive been doing these since 2005 with great success over 300 kits all over the US and 2 in Australia and 5 in Canada as well as 34 or so myself. PM me for info and tricks to save lots of time, mods and money...if you want to.

 

[Grimbrand]

Well dang, Silver! If I'd known you were doing these I'd have just pointed at you right off. =)

 

[Charles Reeves]

Hello 66slvpny not trying to spoil your plan but I make a 3 piece kit that lets you use the stock shifter and its all bolt in with no fancy mods I saw in that write up you listed. my kit is two fourty and its a new shifter arm, cross member and range selector mounting bracket. You need nothing else to effect this conversion aside from the tps signal and reroute exhaust new driveshaft that must happen regardless. Also do not use a urethane mount, do use an aluminum driveshaft, be positive the slip yoke is for a 4R70W.
I have no idea on what all you spent but ive been doing these since 2005 with great success over 300 kits all over the US and 2 in Australia and 5 in Canada as well as 34 or so myself. PM me for info and tricks to save lots of time, mods and money...if you want to.

I'd like to see more info posted here, and see nothing wrong with doing that. I also suspect many other readers would like to see it. Thanks.

 

[66slvrpny]

Hello 66slvpny not trying to spoil your plan but I make a 3 piece kit that lets you use the stock shifter and its all bolt in with no fancy mods I saw in that write up you listed. my kit is two fourty and its a new shifter arm, cross member and range selector mounting bracket. You need nothing else to effect this conversion aside from the tps signal and reroute exhaust new driveshaft that must happen regardless. Also do not use a urethane mount, do use an aluminum driveshaft, be positive the slip yoke is for a 4R70W.
I have no idea on what all you spent but ive been doing these since 2005 with great success over 300 kits all over the US and 2 in Australia and 5 in Canada as well as 34 or so myself. PM me for info and tricks to save lots of time, mods and money...if you want to.

Thanks for the tip sadly its to late for me as ive already received all my parts but hopefully someone else wanting to do the swap sees your post.

 

[silver69]

Hello

Joe Persad's Library | Photobucket

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-4r70w-conversion-tips-how-to


Breeze over the stuff in the links and the stuff is in the photobucket link about half way through all the pages, sorry.

OK Folks, its kinda long story so here goes and Ill warn the grammar police now, violator ahead!
In 2004 I was building my 72 Mach1 in my avatar and knew I did not want an AOD. I saw then that the 4r70w was the holy grail for my needs. I bought a 200 dollar 4r from pull a part here in birmingham. I looked for one which the car body looked good not dinged and beat to hell 3 times over, pulled the dipstick and fluid looked ok so I dropped the pan and it had the blind plug thats in there from when the factory builds these, theres a plug tan in color with an o-ring on it and they dont pull those out they simply shove in the dipstick tube and the plug rolls around in there till first oil change - which means almost till the rebuilder opens it up.
I had found the ONLY people supporting the swap at the time was Baumann Electronic Controls with wiring and controller and some other parts to increase performance like a valve body reprogram kit(mechanical modification not electronic as it may make you think) So with half the battle won all I had to do was install it - heck a monkey can do that right? Yes and no. bolting it up is not the hard part at all, getting it correctly placed in the tunnel (XYZ Axis) was the challenge. So I bought the old AOD /T5 cross member - no dice exhaust would not clear, bought a Ron Morris cross member and it looked good but its for no exhaust as it was straight across the floor and dead centerline where the pipes needed to be and the Transmission body almost touched the tunnel it was so wrong.
So , realizing I had to make my own and the 4r is longer than the fmx I knew it had to be lower but how low? Pulled the 4R, stuck the fmx back in and took measurements of left to right in the tunnel and made a jig that went between the front spring eye on the leaf springs, a key measuring point when fixing frame work, front suspension set up etc. So then put the 4R back in and corrected for the drop or the pinion angle would either kill the u joints or cause driveline(driveshaft) vibrations. that also meant moving it more center by just under 3/8". So now I had the vertical placement of the output spline corrected by putting the slip yoke and measuring the cup as I had documented with the fmx and the same thing left and right. I could have done all of this by moving the engine mounts forward the 2 inches but that would move the center of gravity forward making the car nose heavy(er).
That took a month and a case of miller lite but I was convinced this would work and thank God that has remained constant.
Now build a crossmember that kept the coordinates true once installed so that took a few tries and lots of frustration to accomplish and finally 6 versions in I had a good repeatable part. I Had another even bigger challenge ahead of me I did not think of and it was a compound problem, the range selector switch and the shift pattern were 180 reversed...boy was I ever mad at myself. so out comes the 4R again....I was too far into this to stop now. I decided to remove the shifiter rod and cut it in half rotate it 180 and weld it back together and go that route, but .....happy day...the step detent on the inside of the case is double D keyed so I was able to just flip the arm 180 and re assemble the step detent in 5 minutes flat! Now that brings us back to the shift rod to my oem floor shift which I was keeping regardless. And that pesky black 11 wire range selector switch could now point down and forward so no more floor interference, things were looking up I made a bracket to hold the switch stationary over the shifter arm as the internal part of the switch moves and has a male key cast onto it and the arm has a female slot cast into it so its was straight forward once I moved one of the aluminum anti crush sleeves to line up with my bracket. My bracket is fastened to the case where the old cable shifter is mounted. The last part of the install was to get a shifter arm designed which I did and finally took all 3 pieces to my friend who has a laser cutting shop and he drew them in CAD and cut me some parts which we tweaked and got right.
Then I put it all in with the sock converter and yoke and a stand alone cooler and test drove it with no interior as i was still putting her back together, best drive ever all you could hear was exhaust note change with smooth precise shifts, 1 to 2 brrrr(engine sound) 2 to 3 Brrrr( """") and dang at 54 or so 3 to 4!!!!!!!!!!! I was beside myself and then 65 od dropped 300 more revs to 1800 at 70(325 gears then). I was hooked that instant and knew all the months of work and burns from welding on my arms and in my nylon tennis shoes(I know) was worth it.
Then as I started driving the car more and more and getting it worked out the dreaded driveline vibration showed up at 72 to 77 but how, it cant be the angle - it was right, hope it was not some torque converter bs and I KNOW THERES NO WAY ITS MY 450 DOLLAR SHINY NEW STEEL DRIVESHAFT .....RIGHT?? WRONG it took me months and 2 more steel driveshafts which are in my shop in the corner to this day to figure it out.
Apparently the frequency in steel is much lower than in aluminum and I had 3.70 gears which put the steel into its harmonic dance at? yep 72 mph. The frequency in aluminum comes in somewhere much higher and most cars are not going to hit 160 mph so will never approach that frequency. Its not that you are masking a frequency its that you are moving it to a place you will never go.
So Ive had guys and gals use urethane mounts and same thing, it transmits so much feedback its annoying like the exhaust pipe touching the floorpan.
I got lucky and got this so close to acceptable that it works in 65 to 73 cars. 67-70 use the same floorpan, 64-66 pans are close enough(front spring eye to engine mount) and 67-73 cars ( cougars mustangs fairlance and torinos ---same) some of the 1st gen mustangs use and equalizer bar mounted on the crossmember and you can weld one of those to my crossmembers because its 3/8 laser cut plate and stronger than any other part of the car.
I thought to myself after we put these in my two brothers 69 convertibles "hey I bet there are some guys that would love this mod! and I would love to help them as I had no support it would be great to give back to the ones who would jump on this but have no resources to get this far" I was half right as I was chastised by lots of members for doing something so outlandish to a precious mustang.... but a friend I made who did the swap with my kit on his 68 Eliminator Cougar from Arizona (AZCAT.. cool huh!) was so excited and happy that i kept at it and consequently lots of folks have followed through as well.
So in short.
BE Controls cause they were there for me since day 1 and send my customers all the time so BE CONTROLS for the win!!!
if you are making more than 400 hp DO the valve body mod.
Use a 3.8 v6 you see has good fluid(99.9% of these did not get used for towing, racing or any hard duty work)
Do not waste money rebuilding it they are a ton of them in junk yards for 150-200 dollars and they are BULLET PROOF.
Will take up to 700hp and 700 lbs tq
Aluminum driveshaft a must with gears over 325, heck you gotta do a driveshaft anyway just go aluminum.
Stock rubber mount from auto zone $10 for FMX / C4
The front line is the pressure side to the cooler so go front line to rad(if u want) to external cooler back to rear line
Get the stock converter, engine block plate, Yoke and Dipstick tube.
Can use small body starter- prefer it
you need a 164 Tooth flexplate for a 4R70W no exceptions, summit has them 70 bucks and get the balance for your engine(28/50/0)
DEX 5(V) only
Baumann has the computer in 2 varieties, new wiring harness, all plug and play you MUST provide a TPS(Throttle position sensor) signal for the transmission to work and they have a kit for that too, if you are already efi then tap the orange wire of the TPS for that signal.
Controller has several plug and play box tunes you only adjust if you want to, most people do not.

MUST USE A 4R70W YOKE all ford c4/fmx/c6 have a 28 spline output shaft as werll as this 4r and aod aode BUT the tailshaft bearing for a 4r is specific to a 4r do not assume cause it went it and engaged it will work but it will not.

351C 2 and 4 barrel cars with cast manifolds can use the factory h pipe as it seems to have been made to fit the 4r. headers clear it as well 302/351w guys have to do exhaust work
3.8Lv6 bolt pattern matches 260/289/302/251w/351c only Art Carr in CA makes a kit to adapt it to a 429/460
Use stock sifter in side car ( will be PRND(3&4&OD in D or 3) 2nd in 2 and 1st in 1. Can use an od cancel switch to lock out od on demand I never saw the use in this
Currie enterprises website has an rpm calculator so you can determine what YOU will see at a given mph with your setup. Use .069 for the final drive ratio and the rest is your tire size and differential gear ratio.
mine was 2290 at 80 with 235-60-15 and 3.70 cause everybody drive 80 right?
Some 04 transmissions do not have a splined output shaft so no mechanical speedo drive but from 98(maybe much sooner) they had mechanical and reluctor outputs for electronic speedos.
The later ones were the best because ford did most of the valve body mods on their own to keep improving the transmissions.

Anyone need help or have questions can reach me at joepersad@aol.com or 205-999-4667 I rarely sleep since i was a teen so dont be shy, there are no stupid questions and i love to learn about other ways to do things that may be better than how im doing it, im not too smart to lean.

My 200 dollar pull a part transmission is STILL behind my 355 Cleveland even though she is no longer mine, I am good friends with the owner and build other cars for him. Revamped the car in 07 with a roller cam, massflo sequential port efi, eldelbrock aluminum heads, TCI torque arm rear suspension(for 67-70 remember the front spring eye to the back of the front frame rail is the same but the 71-73 are 2.75" wider between the front frame rails = easy fix with two filler plates) That is the one car I regret selling but life marches on.

Kindest regards,
Joe Persad

 

[silver69]

Well dang, Silver! If I'd known you were doing these I'd have just pointed at you right off. =)

Hahaha Grimbrand its all good its my fault for staying away so long just gets busy and so much to do.

 

[havoc65]

Hahaha Grimbrand its all good its my fault for staying away so long just gets busy and so much to do.

Good info Silver69. I'm also looking into doing a C4 to 4R70W swap in my 65. Could you post some pics of your conversion kit? Thanks!

 

[66slvrpny]

Hello

Joe Persad's Library | Photobucket

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-4r70w-conversion-tips-how-to


Breeze over the stuff in the links and the stuff is in the photobucket link about half way through all the pages, sorry.

OK Folks, its kinda long story so here goes and Ill warn the grammar police now, violator ahead!
In 2004 I was building my 72 Mach1 in my avatar and knew I did not want an AOD. I saw then that the 4r70w was the holy grail for my needs. I bought a 200 dollar 4r from pull a part here in birmingham. I looked for one which the car body looked good not dinged and beat to hell 3 times over, pulled the dipstick and fluid looked ok so I dropped the pan and it had the blind plug thats in there from when the factory builds these, theres a plug tan in color with an o-ring on it and they dont pull those out they simply shove in the dipstick tube and the plug rolls around in there till first oil change - which means almost till the rebuilder opens it up.
I had found the ONLY people supporting the swap at the time was Baumann Electronic Controls with wiring and controller and some other parts to increase performance like a valve body reprogram kit(mechanical modification not electronic as it may make you think) So with half the battle won all I had to do was install it - heck a monkey can do that right? Yes and no. bolting it up is not the hard part at all, getting it correctly placed in the tunnel (XYZ Axis) was the challenge. So I bought the old AOD /T5 cross member - no dice exhaust would not clear, bought a Ron Morris cross member and it looked good but its for no exhaust as it was straight across the floor and dead centerline where the pipes needed to be and the <acronym title="transmission"><acronym title="transmission">trans</acronym></acronym> almost touched tunnel it was so wrong.
So , realizing I had to make my own and the 4r is longer than the fmx I knew it had to be lower but how low? Pulled the 4R, stuck the fmx back in and took measurements of left to right int he tunnel and made a jig that went between the front spring eye on the leaf springs, a key measuring point when fixing frame work, front suspension set up etc. So then put the 4R back in and corrected for the drop or the pinion angle would either kill the u joints or cause driveline(driveshaft) vibrations. that also meant moving it more center by just under 3/8". So now I had the vertical placement of the output spline corrected(by putting the slip yoke and measuring the cup as I had documented with the fmx and the same thing left and right. I could have done all of this by moving the engine mounts forward the 2 inches but that would move the center of gravity forward making the car nose heavy(er).
That took a month and a case of miller lite but I was convinced this would work and thank God that has remained constant.
Now build a crossmember that kept the coordinates true once installed so that took a few tries and lots of frustration to accomplish and finally 6 versions in I had a good repeatable part. I Had another even bigger challenge ahead of me I did not think of and it was a compound problem, the range selector switch and the shift pattern were 180 reversed...boy was I ever mad at myself. so out comes the 4R again....I was too far into this to stop now. I decided to remove the shifiter rod and cut it in half rotate it 180 and weld it back together and go that route, but .....happy day...the step detent on the inside of the case is double D keyed so I was able to just flip the arm 180 and re assemble the step detent in 5 minutes flat! Now that brings us back to the shift rod to my oem floor shift which I was keeping regardless. And that pesky black 11 wire range selector switch could now point down and forward so no more floor interference, things were looking up I made a bracket to hold the switch stationary over the shifter arm as the internal part of the switch moves and has a male key cast onto it and the arm has a female slot cast into it so its was straight forward once I moved one of the aluminum anti crush sleeves to line up with my bracket. My bracket is fastened to the case where the old cable shifter is mounted. The last part of the install was to get a shifter arm designed which I did and finally took all 3 pieces to my friend who has a laser cutting shop and he drew them in CAD and cut me some parts which we tweaked and got right.
Then I put it all in with the sock converter and yoke and a stand alone cooler and test drove it with no interior as i was still putting her back together, best drive ever all you could hear was exhaust note change with smooth precise shifts, 1 to 2 brrrr(engine sound) 2 to 3 Brrrr( """") and dang at 54 or so 3 to 4!!!!!!!!!!! I was beside myself and then 65 od dropped 300 more revs to 1800 at 70(325 gears then). I was hooked that instant and knew all the months of work and burns from welding on my arms and in my nylon tennis shoes(I know) was worth it.
Then as I started driving the car more and more and getting it worked out the dreaded driveline vibration showed up at 72 to 77 but how, it cant be the angle - it was right, hope it was not some torque converter bs and I KNOW THERES NO WAY ITS MY 450 DOLLAR SHINY NEW STEEL DRIVESHAFT .....RIGHT?? WRONG it took me months and 2 more steel driveshafts which are in my shop in the corner to this day to figure it out.
Apparently the frequency in steel is much lower than in aluminum and I had 3.70 gears which put the steel into its harmonic dance at? yep 72 mph. The frequency in aluminum comes in somewhere much higher and most cars are not going to hit 160 mph so will never approach that frequency. Its not that you are masking a frequency its that you are moving it to a place you will never go.
So Ive had guys and gals use urethane mounts and same thing, it transmits so much feedback its annoying like the exhaust pipe touching the floorpan.
I got lucky and got this so close to acceptable that it works in 65 to 73 cars. 67-70 use the same floorpan, 64-66 pans are close enough(front spring eye to engine mount) and 67-73 cars ( cougars mustangs fairlance and torinos ---same) some of the 1st gen mustangs use and equalizer bar mounted on the crossmember and you can weld one of those to my crossmembers because its 3/8 laser cut plate and stronger than any other part of the car.
I thought to myself after we put these in my two brothers 69 convertibles "hey I bet there are some guys that would love this mod! and I would love to help them as I had no support it would be great to give back to the ones who would jump on this but have no resources to get this far" I was half right as I was chastised by lots of members for doing something so outlandish to a precious mustang.... but a friend I made who did the swap with my kit on his 68 Eliminator Cougar from Arizona (AZCAT.. cool huh!) was so excited and happy that i kept at it and consequently lots of folks have followed through as well.
So in short.
BE Controls cause they were there for me since day 1 and send my customers all the time so BE CONTROLS for the win!!!
if you are making more than 400 hp DO the valve body mod.
Use a 3.8 v6 you see has good fluid(99.9% of these did not get used for towing, racing or any hard duty work)
Do not waste money rebuilding it they are a ton of them in junk yards for 150-200 dollars and they are BULLET PROOF.
Will take up to 700hp and 700 lbs tq
Aluminum driveshaft a must with gears over 325, heck you gotta do a driveshaft anyway just go aluminum.
Stock rubber mount from auto zone $10 for FMX / C4
The front line is the pressure side to the cooler so go front line to rad(if u want) to external cooler back to rear line
Get the stock converter, engine block plate, Yoke and Dipstick tube.
Can use small body starter- prefer it
you need a 164 Tooth flexplate for a 4R70W no exceptions, summit has them 70 bucks and get the balance for your engine(28/50/0)
DEX 5(V) only
Baumann has the computer in 2 varieties, new wiring harness, all plug and play you MUST provide a TPS(Throttle position sensor) signal for the <acronym title="transmission">trans</acronym> to work and they have a kit for that too, if you are already efi then tap the orange wire for that signal.
Controller has several plug and play box tunes you only adjust if you want to, most people do not.
MUST USE A 4R70W YOKE all ford c4/fmx/c6 have a 28 spline output shaft as werll as this 4r and aod aode BUT the tailshaft bearing for a 4r is specific to a 4r do not assume cause it went it and engaged it will work but it will not.
351C 2 and 4 barrel cars with cast manifolds can use the factory h pipe as it seems to have been made to fit the 4r. headers clear it as well 302/351w guys have to do exhaust work
3.8Lv6 bolt pattern matches 260/289/302/251w/351c only Art Carr in CA makes a kit to adapt it to a 429/460
Use stock sifter in side car ( will be PRND(3&4&OD in D or 3) 2nd in 2 and 1st in 1. Can use an od cancel switch to lock out od on demand I never saw the use in this
Currie enterprises website has an rpm calculator so you can determine what YOU will see at a given mph with your setup. Use .069 for the final drive ratio and the rest is your tire size and differential gear ratio.
mine was 2290 at 80 with 235-60-15 and 3.70 cause everybody drive 80 right?
Some 04 transmissions do not have a splined output shaft so no mechanical speedo drive but from 98(maybe much sooner) they had mechanical and reluctor outputs for electronic speedos.
The later ones were the best because ford did most of the valve body mods on their own to keep improving the transmissions.

Anyone need help or have questions can reach me at joepersad@aol.com or 205-999-4667 I rarely sleep since i was a teen so dont be shy, there are no stupid questions and i love to learn about other ways to do things that may be better than how im doing it, im not too smart to lean.

My 200 dollar pull a part transmission is STILL behind my 355 Cleveland even though she is no longer mine, I am good friends with the owner and build other cars for him. Revamped the car in 07 with a roller cam, massflo sequential port efi, eldelbrock aluminum heads, TCI torque arm rear suspension(for 67-70 remember the front spring eye to the back of the front frame rail is the same but the 71-73 are 2.75" wider between the front frame rails = easy fix with two filler plates) That is the one car I regret selling but life marches on.

Kindest regards,
Joe Persad

Hey Silver I just read your experience in the swap. Thank you very much for sharing! I hope I dont run into as many issues as you did but knowing that taking a tranny thats 34 years newer then the car and slapping it in is no easy task. I just got the c4 out today. I am hoping most of all I cant tweak my patriot tri-y headers and keep them compared to shorties. I was able to sneak the c4 past them just barley though. After more looking and thinking I am wondering a couple things...

Will I just be blocking off the vacuum line that ran from the manifold to the tranny?

With the new system I am assuming that I will not need to retrofit the 2 plug harness that went to the c4?

As far and tans cooler lines am I going to have to fab my own?

Thats all I can think of off hand for now. I do plan fo now to keep the stock driveshaft and get it resized and balanced I will get the 28 spline yoke for it to so it mates to the 4r.
Thank you to everyone who has commented. When its all said and done I will post a how to on here as to how my swap went.

 

[Grimbrand]

I don't think the 4R70W uses manifold vacuum, so yep, you'd cap that off. You do need a throttle position sensor, but you can order one with the Baumann kits. If I recall correctly, the 4R70W transmission has its own neutral safety switch. I am pretty sure the plugs would not match the ones on your car, but you could look up the pinouts, cut off the head from your C4 switch, and with minimal effort, make the new switch plug into your existing stuff to run your backup lights and neutral safety stuff. (at least that's how I'd approach it!)

 

[silver69]

Grimbrand is right, the baumann wiring harness has 4 white wires that go to the neutral safety switch & reverse lights and its plenty long to meet your needs. As far as the cooler lines you can interconnect them with rubber hose to the factory hard lines you now have for your c4. That being said you will need for your 4R70W to have the fittings in the transmission body.

 

[66slvrpny]

Thanks Grim and Silver for this Info. It's great to have a site like this with people that know there stuff. I have the 4r70w ready to go into the car this weekend (fingers crossed) I have a couple more questions for you guys.

Will I be able to use the stock 66 speedo cable and speedo gear?

When It comes to the driveshaft I know I have to get a new yoke but how does a person measure the u-joints? I want to use my stock driveshaft and get it resized.

 

[Grimbrand]

Depending on the year of your 4R70W, it should have the provision for your speedo cable there in the back - up to 2002 I think.

You *can* get your stock driveshaft resized, but you might strongly consider going to a lightweight driveshaft like aluminum, because the steel shafts spin at a speed that creates harmonics. In other words, in real world conditions, you're going to get a lot of vibration, with it spinning 32% faster than stock.

The aluminum ones 'wobble' at a different frequency, one much higher than you'd normally get while driving around, so they don't create the same problems. Explorers or Mountaineers with 4R70Ws had aluminum driveshafts which will work great, but they often get damaged when they get moved around with a forklift.

 

[silver69]

HAVOC65 i dont know how to post them here but give me an email ill send it to you

 

[66slvrpny]

Depending on the year of your 4R70W, it should have the provision for your speedo cable there in the back - up to 2002 I think.

You *can* get your stock driveshaft resized, but you might strongly consider going to a lightweight driveshaft like aluminum, because the steel shafts spin at a speed that creates harmonics. In other words, in real world conditions, you're going to get a lot of vibration, with it spinning 32% faster than stock.

The aluminum ones 'wobble' at a different frequency, one much higher than you'd normally get while driving around, so they don't create the same problems. Explorers or Mountaineers with 4R70Ws had aluminum driveshafts which will work great, but they often get damaged when they get moved around with a forklift.

Sweet im glad I can use the stock speedo cable. I have read about driveshaft harmonics and will look into an aluminum one. Id love to find one the right length so I can bypass getting it cut but we will see what length I need once the tranny is in there. Any suggestions on what driveshaft yoke to go with?

 

[Grimbrand]

You'll want to check with Silver69 on this, but if you had to buy one new, you'd want something like this

Otherwise, if you're getting a salvage yard driveshaft, just grab the yoke that comes with it. You'll probably have to have the shaft shortened anyway. They even make a U-joint that has both sizes of caps on it, so you can mate your driveshaft with whatever you need. There are lots of solutions available to make this work, and it's a very popular swap, so it won't be tough to sort out.

Just decide if you want to go with a salvage yard shaft and mod it, or buy a whole new setup, and either way, let them know what rear end you'll be hooking this up to.

 

[havoc65]

HAVOC65 i dont know how to post them here but give me an email ill send it to you

PM sent. Thanks.