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you folks that know how to post pics and stuff really tick me off sometimes lol just kidding!
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
I've hit my first major hurdle. I just took the stock flexplate off and index plate. I went to install the 4r70w index plate and I have some issues with it. For one the bolt-hole for the tranny to block right above the starter does not line up from plate to plate. The stock C4 plate hole is going right through the 4 R 70 w plate the other issue I ran into is on the left side AKA opposite side from the starter there is a pear-shaped hole through the 4 R 70 W index plate where the stock plate there is no hole if this plate where to be used my flexplate would be exposed to the elements. Need some advice people let's hear it

here's a picture of the problem. Also forgot to mention the bolt hole in the bottom left-hand corner of the index plate does not line up with the stock C4
 

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the 4r blockplate is different because you also have to use a 164 tooth flexplate which is a different diameter. and what did your blockplate come out of I have not seen that style before open at the very top like that.
What year trans and what car is it from? All else fails buy a blockplate for a 2000 302 exploder.
 
The bellhousing of your transmission *has* to match the early C4/Windsor pattern. Well, not *early*. Not 5 bolt, obviously. This is one of the reasons the year and type of engine the transmission was bolted to is important.

A "mod motor" 4R70W will not bolt up to your Windsor, regardless of the plate. Hopefully, it's the right transmission, and just the wrong plate! The plate *is* needed for the extra spacing, and to help index your starter.
 
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Discussion starter · #47 ·
The bellhousing of your transmission *has* to match the early C4/Windsor pattern. Well, not *early*. Not 5 bolt, obviously. This is one of the reasons the year and type of engine the transmission was bolted to is important.

A "mod motor" 4R70W will not bolt up to your Windsor, regardless of the plate. Hopefully, it's the right transmission, and just the wrong plate! The plate *is* needed for the extra spacing, and to help index your starter.

Ok I just ran out to the garage and thankfully the wrong index plate does not line up to the new <acronym title="transmission">trans</acronym> so you are right it is the wrong plate and not the wrong <acronym title="transmission">trans</acronym>. So I looked up index plates on summit and no matter what i search i.e 2000 mustang, 2000 ford explorer or there respective v6 motors I get 4 results https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=index plate

The top one is the wrong one I ordered. It seems to be tricky locating the right plate. It seems most I find are for "mod" motors any links to the right one would help a ton.

Here is a link to the flex plate I have
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pma-pax30211

Here is a link to the starter I have
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-829302


As always guys Thank you for your continued help in this project.
 
That looks like it might be a plate for a mod motor. The pear shaped hole is to access the torque convertor to flexplate fasteners on those engines.
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
I think it will work based on the description from cj's. The one you have is for a Modular 4.6l as others pointed out.
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
UPDATE!!!

The 4r70w trans is in the car now. There were not many issues other then the sad fact I cannot use my patriot tri-y headers that are only a year old. Also the stock c4 trans mount bolts will not work on the 4r as the bell housing is thicker. I had some bolts that i scavenged last year when i tore apart the motor that worked great (gota love it). I still have one thing to finish and its the wiring. Does anyone know what wire is what in the stock harness that goes to the c4 for neutral safety, back up lights ect.? its the 4 wires that I need to wire up to the new controller just not sure the layout of the stock ones.

Thanks guys!

P.S if anyone is in the market for a pair of 1 year old Patriot Full-Length ceramic coated tri-y headers let me know there $395 new I would sell them for $250+ shipping via paypal I live in Minnesota for an idea on shipping distance. here is a link to them at summit
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pte-h8426-1
 
^ Moderator noticed the sale listed above is properly posted in the classic forum classified section. Any one responding to the sale, please head over to the classified to communicate with the seller.
 
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It seems you will be stuck with shorties from now on, unless you have the means to go with custom long tubes. I've had my Hedman ceramic coated shorties for some years now and this is the way to go IMO.




J
 
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Light out the leads by using a voltmeter. Put shifter in park and see which two light for continuity and verify by going to reverse which should break it then make up again in neutral.
The other two are the reverse lights, one of which goes to the lights and one brings 12+ in and when in Reverse the switch in the shifet allows the voltage to pass illuminating the reverse lights. Two minutes you will get it figured man.
 
what did you end up using for a cross member?
 
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