My quick writeup on 6x8 speaker install on my 2012 today...for those thinking about doing it, DO IT. I chose a set of Ininity 180w - very good value for money, pretty cheap on Amazon
Tools required:
------------------
8mm socket
6mm socket
Torx T30 bit/driver
Small flatblade screwdriver
Parts:
-------
Speakers of your choice
Metra “turbo wire” install kit PN: 72-5600 (optional)
The front door panel removal is very easy on the mustang. This is a plane jane GT --- for those w/ the shaker setup you will also need to remove a trim ring around the bigger speaker on the bottom. The whole process is very easy and shouldn't take very long per side.
*Note: All the hardware on the panel is essentially hand tight from factory. Don’t over torque it putting it all back
Start out by removing all the trim bits to expose the mounting hardware:
Remove the power window switch plate by prying up lightly on the edge of the plate, it should pop right off. Disconnect the wire harness and put the assembly aside
Remove the cover plate behind the door handle assembly. Just pull the handle to the full open position then pry back slightly on the plate, it pops right off.
Remove the plate in the center of the armrest by lightly prying from the top. It pops right off
Remove the bezel around the door lock post. Pops right off
Remove the bezel for the mirror control assembly (triangular) at the front of the door. The drivers side will have a harness for the switch – disconnect it. Passenger side just pops off.
Hardware (red) and bits (blue) layout
Now it is time to unbolt stuff.
Remove 7 8mm bolts around the perimeter of the door panel. There are 2 along the inner edge (towards the front of the car), 3 on the bottom edge and 2 on the outer edge. The outer two are covered by small round plugs which easily pop up with light pressure via flathead.
Remove 1 8mm bolt from the window switch plate area (kinda hard to see, top edge
Remove 1 T30 torx flatheaded bolt from center armrest area
Remove 1 T30 torx flatheaded bolt from the center of door release handle area
Lightly pull up on the door panel once everything has been unbolted to free it from the self-latching system. Once it is free pull it forward slightly to expose the connections. Disconnect the harness pieces exposed (they are color coded and different sized…you can’t mess up J )
The door latch release cable can either be disconnected fully, or you can simply rotate the door panel out of the way. For the speaker install it is far easier to just move the panel out of the way rather than disconnect all the bits…
Once exposed you can see the inner vapor barrier and the speaker assembly. The speaker is held into the mounting bezel by 4 6mm bolts. Unbolt them and disconnect the 2-prong harness.
Installing the speaker is pretty painless. I had to modify the mounting area slightly – namely the lower “ring” of the factory mounting bezel hit the Infinity mounting hardware. All I did was make a small slice on the riser part of the plastic, then just sheer it off with pliers. It looks factory J
Mount the new speaker. I’d recommend you use foam tape around the
mounting surface to ensure there are no rattles. Now I did the quick n; easy route by spending the 10$ on a harness adaptor. You can splice the factory harness if you wish, but if you are not used to making electronic connections (or want to easily swap back to factory later) I’d say just drop the 10$ on the pair of harness wires.
Test the speakers real quick to ensure everything works as desired. If your tweeter rotates for directional output you may need to play with the best position.
Button everything up in pretty much reverse order (LOL…sounds like a Hayes manual). Overall extremely easy to swap out the factory ford 25w bits for something a little better with potential for future growth.
Tools required:
------------------
8mm socket
6mm socket
Torx T30 bit/driver
Small flatblade screwdriver
Parts:
-------
Speakers of your choice
Metra “turbo wire” install kit PN: 72-5600 (optional)
The front door panel removal is very easy on the mustang. This is a plane jane GT --- for those w/ the shaker setup you will also need to remove a trim ring around the bigger speaker on the bottom. The whole process is very easy and shouldn't take very long per side.
*Note: All the hardware on the panel is essentially hand tight from factory. Don’t over torque it putting it all back
Start out by removing all the trim bits to expose the mounting hardware:
Remove the power window switch plate by prying up lightly on the edge of the plate, it should pop right off. Disconnect the wire harness and put the assembly aside
Remove the cover plate behind the door handle assembly. Just pull the handle to the full open position then pry back slightly on the plate, it pops right off.
Remove the plate in the center of the armrest by lightly prying from the top. It pops right off
Remove the bezel around the door lock post. Pops right off
Remove the bezel for the mirror control assembly (triangular) at the front of the door. The drivers side will have a harness for the switch – disconnect it. Passenger side just pops off.
Hardware (red) and bits (blue) layout

Now it is time to unbolt stuff.
Remove 7 8mm bolts around the perimeter of the door panel. There are 2 along the inner edge (towards the front of the car), 3 on the bottom edge and 2 on the outer edge. The outer two are covered by small round plugs which easily pop up with light pressure via flathead.
Remove 1 8mm bolt from the window switch plate area (kinda hard to see, top edge
Remove 1 T30 torx flatheaded bolt from center armrest area

Remove 1 T30 torx flatheaded bolt from the center of door release handle area

Lightly pull up on the door panel once everything has been unbolted to free it from the self-latching system. Once it is free pull it forward slightly to expose the connections. Disconnect the harness pieces exposed (they are color coded and different sized…you can’t mess up J )
The door latch release cable can either be disconnected fully, or you can simply rotate the door panel out of the way. For the speaker install it is far easier to just move the panel out of the way rather than disconnect all the bits…

Once exposed you can see the inner vapor barrier and the speaker assembly. The speaker is held into the mounting bezel by 4 6mm bolts. Unbolt them and disconnect the 2-prong harness.
Installing the speaker is pretty painless. I had to modify the mounting area slightly – namely the lower “ring” of the factory mounting bezel hit the Infinity mounting hardware. All I did was make a small slice on the riser part of the plastic, then just sheer it off with pliers. It looks factory J

Mount the new speaker. I’d recommend you use foam tape around the
mounting surface to ensure there are no rattles. Now I did the quick n; easy route by spending the 10$ on a harness adaptor. You can splice the factory harness if you wish, but if you are not used to making electronic connections (or want to easily swap back to factory later) I’d say just drop the 10$ on the pair of harness wires.

Test the speakers real quick to ensure everything works as desired. If your tweeter rotates for directional output you may need to play with the best position.
Button everything up in pretty much reverse order (LOL…sounds like a Hayes manual). Overall extremely easy to swap out the factory ford 25w bits for something a little better with potential for future growth.